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In the nineties, the winery began to rise, to break away from anonymity, to become a wine value for wine lovers. I bought the wine back then - in 1997 - when it was a real bargain. Actually, it still is today, because the 2010 doesn't cost much more than this wine did 14 years ago.

Rollan de By 1996 This may be due to two things: the dominance of Merlot - by 70 percent (as pronounced as is rarely the case in the Médoc) and the fact that wines from the very north of Médoc are hardly taken note of by wine lovers - even Bordeaux lovers. That's just the way things are in the Bordelais!

Parker first set his sights on the estate - I think - in 1997, with 84 - 85 points. Gabriel was a little earlier, already in 1990 with 15/20 points. The 1996 reached 17/20 points for the first time then, but then came the 2003, 2005, 2009 and 2011 even with 18/20 points. It is astonishing that the price always remained around 25 euros; Rollan de By - or rather its owner Jean Guyon - did not go along with all the capers of the Bordelais. He did expand the vineyard (by acquiring Haut Condissas, for example) and is still within the range of the best price/performance ratio in Bordeaux.

Rollan de By, for me the reliable one. Even when it scaled a Parker sound barrier in 2010 - the 90/100 points - it remained modest. An unobtrusive Bordeaux with clear contours, toasted notes, rather soft, pleasurable malt or chocolate tones, fruits, sultanas, everything in fine appeal, not beaten to the table (or rather into the wine). I also find all this in the matured '96, which - I won't hide it - now has to be drunk.

It has reached its peak, it can only descend. And that would be a pity, too pity for a wine that shines in its modesty.

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