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Trentino is different from other Italian regions. This is not only because very little wine is produced by winegrowers, but almost all by cellar cooperatives. It differs above all from a geographical-topographical point of view. Viticulture in the main valley, through which the Adige River flows, is concentrated on the slopes to the right and left of the narrow Dolomite corridor. The only somewhat larger plain has formed at the confluence of the Noce and Adige rivers near Mezzocorona: the Piana Rotaliana planted with Teroldego vines.

Anyone rushing along the motorway from Verona towards Brennero can only see a small part of the vineyards. He may wonder where the region is hiding its 10,000 hectares of vines. In fact, a lot of Trentino wine grows in the side valleys: in the Valle di Cembra alone there are about 700 hectares - mostly on steep terraces and not visible from the main valley.

Trentino viticulture reached its greatest expansion between the two world wars with 26,000 hectares. But phylloxera and war, and later orchards and urbanisation, pushed viticulture back to less than half that.

It was Mario Pojer (Pojer & Sandri) who drew my attention to the Valle di Cembra. Last August, he put a dozen Müller-Thurgau on my table and invited me to taste them. The fruity freshness of the wines appealed to me so much that I asked him to accompany me the next day to the vineyards where these wines come from. From Faedo, where the Pojer & Sandri winery is located, it is only 20 minutes over the mountain to the main town of Cembra in the valley of the same name.

The view over hundreds of hectares of steep slopes threw me. Blimey, what kind of ignorant wine writer am I not to know such treasures of viticulture? It was immediately decided that I would return to get to know the valley and its inhabitants better.

(Source: Merum)

Sunny and shady side

The Cembra Valley ends at Lavis, where the Avisio flows into the Adige. Up the valley, the wine villages of Giovo, Lisignago, Cembra and Faver are lined up in a row.

Originally, the valley was carved out in a U-shape by glaciers, and it is precisely on the edges of this originally gentle depression that the villages linked by the state road 612 sit. The Avisio River then carved a deep V-shaped riverbed with steep slopes and gorges into the glacier-created valley floor over time.

Above and below the road are the vineyards, going up from 300 metres at the bottom of the valley to 800 metres. In the 17th and 18th centuries, generations of winegrowers made even the most inhospitable steep slopes arable by building dry stone walls. Today, 700 kilometres of these monuments of human diligence still stand in the Valle di Cembra, without which viticulture would not be possible here.

The inhabitants of the Trentino Dolomite valleys were poor, because the climate was too harsh and the slopes too steep for agriculture, and often only pasture and forestry remained. In comparison, the inhabitants of the Cembra Valley were better off, because their valley does not run from north to south like the others, but from southwest to northeast. As a result, one side of the valley is warmed by the sun from morning to evening, which favours the cultivation of vines. Wine, and here even more so grappa, was a blessing for the farmers.

On the other side of the valley, where the sun hardly reaches even in summer, the "red gold" has been mined since the 1960s in the porphyry quarries visible from afar. The porphyry quarry has made many an out-of-town entrepreneur wealthy. Albiano is said to have been the richest village in Italy during the porphyry boom.

The farmers on the sunny side of the valley, however, had little of the neighbouring wealth, and when in the 1970s and 1980s the industrial companies down in the main valley needed workers, many left their village and moved to Trento. In those years, many a vineyard was abandoned to its fate.

Tourism, too, hardly brings any income to the inhabitants of the Cembra Valley. The river Avisio rises from the Marmolata glacier, about 90 kilometres up the valley from Lavis. The upper part of the valley is called Val di Fassa, in the middle it becomes Val di Fiemme and in the lowest third Valle di Cembra. While the Val di Fassa and Val di Fiemme are popular as winter sports and summer resort areas, the Val di Cembra has remained a transit area at best. Because the road was still bad until a few years ago, tourist traffic avoided Cembra and switched to the mountain road ascending from the South Tyrolean Auer for the ascent to the upper Aviso valley. Thus, like their ancestors, today's inhabitants of the Cembra Valley have only wine and grappa as sources of income.

(Source: Merum)

Cradle of grappa

The winegrowers made three products from their grapes: first, of course, the wine, then they softened the marc with water and pressed it a second time to obtain the "vinello" (little wine), and finally they extracted the last bit of alcohol from the grape skins in the still. Especially the grappa was valuable and in demand also among the inhabitants of the other valleys, as a disinfectant, as a tonic, as a pick-me-up.

Distilling schnapps was an indispensable income for the inhabitants of Cembra. Under the Austrians, distilling in South Tyrol and Trentino was tolerated by the state. However, when the region became part of Italy in 1919, the peasant breadwinning became a state monopoly and thus illegal from one day to the next. For the Italian treasury, distillation is a source of income that it does not want to do without. But the farmers could not afford to pay taxes on their grappa. To support their families, many honest winegrowers became lawless moonshiners and bootleggers.

There are many stories from that time. They tell of the clashes of the population with the Italian financial police. A flourishing moonshine culture was entrenched in the valleys, which were difficult to access and had easily controlled access roads. A seamless warning system guaranteed that the grappa families would not be discovered. They usually distilled at night, when there was little danger of unwanted visitors. In case of an alarm, the burning apparatus was dismantled and the individual parts hidden. Sometimes, however, there was a mishap, so that the farmers were caught in the act of distilling, arrested and the distilling equipment made unusable on the spot.

(Source: Merum)
Moreno Nadin (Cembra Cantina di Montagna) recounts: "The financial police had caught a winemaker distilling and wanted to take away his still. The desperate man put his children in the kettle and pleaded: 'If you take my kettle, take my children away too, because without a kettle I can't feed them anymore.' The policemen let him have the kettle and left."

The distilling culture is still at home in the Valle di Cembra today. The distillery of one of Italy's best distillers, Bruno Pilzer, is located in Faver, the neighbouring village of Cembra. Besides Pilzer, there are two other legal grappa distillers in the valley: Giacomozzi in Segonzano and Paolazzi in Faver. Traditionally, however, grappa is also distilled without the state's blessing. There is hardly a winegrower who would not drink his own grappa with his coffee...

How Cembra came up with "Miullè

Two out of five vines in the Valle di Cembra are of the Müller-Thurgau variety. Or "Miullè", as it is pronounced in Italy. But that was not always the case. Until 30 years ago, the winegrowers of the valley had the task of helping the South Tyroleans to satisfy the insatiable demand for Vernatsch. Even today, the vineyards below the road officially belong to the DOC Kalterersee.

Dear readers, your astonishment is understandable: Lake Kalterer is in South Tyrol, and from Cembra to Kaltern is almost 60 kilometres. Only: when this extension of the lake should have been a scandal, nobody was interested. And today it is too late for indignation, because the South Tyroleans are satisfied with their own Kalterer, and the Trentino hardly grow any Vernatsch (Italian: Schiava) any more.

After the Italian methanol scandal of 1986, the South Tyroleans changed their wine strategy and switched from mass bottling to the production of quality wine. Kalterersee from Trentino no longer fitted into the concept.

When the South Tyrolean wineries suddenly no longer wanted Vernatsch, an alternative had to be found quickly in the Valle di Cembra. Müller-Thurgau at high altitudes produced good quality... with high production at the same time. Some bottlers had a need for this variety, as they had found a market for Müller-Thurgau Spumante. The valley was quickly planted with Müller-Thurgau.

At lower altitudes, on the other hand, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were planted for the increasing production of Trento DOC by the big spumante houses in Trento. Even though the Valle di Cembra is trying to make a name for itself for its Müller-Thurgau and this is diligently communicated by official communication, only about 40 percent of the vineyards are planted with this variety, almost half is Chardonnay.

(Source: Merum)

The old, local white wine variety Lagarino has been practically completely displaced by Müller-Thurgau. Lagarino is high in acidity and is very suitable for sparkling wine production. One of the few who still cultivate this variety and make sparkling wines very successfully is the small winegrower Alfio Nicolodi in Cembra.

I can't imagine that people in Switzerland, Austria or Germany have been waiting for an Italian Müller-Thurgau, and expressed these concerns to Goffredo Pasolli (Gaierhof). Pasolli: "99 percent of our Müller-Thurgau is sold in Italy. We chose this variety because it can only be grown in Trentino. Trials had also been made with it in Friuli, but without much success."

Moreno Nardin explains to me the different growing zones in the Cembra Valley: "There are three altitudes: The strip between 500 and 580/600 metres is suitable for Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon and Chardonnay, 580/600 metres to 650 metres is good for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for Spumante production, from 600 to 800 metres it gets interesting for Müller-Thurgau. Below 500 metres, Müller-Thurgau does not produce interesting wines. It's clear that the vineyards from 650 metres upwards are all south-facing."

Diego Bolognani (Bolognani): "Below 550 metres you practically don't see Müller-Thurgau here. If it's planted too low, the acidity and fruit freshness collapse as it matures."

The fundamental problem with a wine called Müller-Thurgau is its mediocre image, not actually its quality, especially in a growing region like this. In the Valle di Cembra, the variety produces exceedingly fresh, sometimes really crisp wines. This breed comes from the special climatic conditions. In the valley, large air masses are shifted in a short time, which can lead to significant temperature changes.

Goffredo Pasolli: "In summer, the temperature in the evening can drop from 30 to 18 degrees in half an hour. In addition, we have rocks of volcanic origin as the basis of our soils. In the lower areas near Giovo, the mixed soils provide greener aromas with a certain minerality. In the Valle di Cembra we grow Müller-Thurgau, which you can't find anywhere else!"

(Source: Merum)

A look at the production rules raises the question whether a yield per hectare of 14 tonnes of grapes is not too high. Goffredo Pasolli: "The variety can still produce interesting qualities at 12 to 13 tonnes. Of course, the higher you go, the lower the yield. At 700 metres, the yield is only ten tonnes. In some years with abundant fruit, it is unavoidable that we have to limit the yield. Müller-Thurgau reacts quite sensitively to overproduction: if 15 or 16 tonnes are exceeded, you only get a thin, neutral wine."

Looking at the figures, Müller-Thurgau does not seem to know any sales problems; on the contrary, production is being expanded. Pasolli: "Ten years ago, 7,000 tonnes of Müller-Thurgau grapes were harvested in Trentino, today we are at 10,500 tonnes. Half of that comes from the Valle di Cembra. Recently, however, the variety has also been planted in areas that were previously virgin to viticulture, such as in Valsugana, for example."

Does that mean that demand for Müller-Thurgau is increasing? Pasolli: "Well, it was mainly a marketing operation that led to this expansion. Cavit pushed its Müller-Thurgau Spumante and took a lot of bulk wine off the market. That then led to the cultivation boom. Now there is a slight backlog again, especially for wines from less suitable sites."

In Cembra, people seem to have taken a fancy to Müller-Thurgau. Goffredo Pasolli: "In Italy, people expect a light, fruity white from us Trentino people, so Müller-Thurgau is just right."

Nevertheless, I find it hard to come to terms with the fact that these steep slopes are supposed to produce nothing more prestigious than a white varietal wine with a reputation that suits neither the quality of the wines, nor these heroic vineyards, nor the high production costs. I am thinking of Valtellina, where great Nebbiolo wines are produced, or Cinque Terre with excellent whites from the autochthonous varieties Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino, or Dolceacqua with wonderful Rossese wines. All three appellations are based on autochthonous varieties and their wines bear the names of the growing areas.

(Source: Merum)
When asked about possible alternatives to Müller-Thurgau, the producers can think of few. Some point to Vernatsch, others to Riesling or Traminer, still others to Sauvignon, Kerner or Pinot Noir. Diego Bolognani has found a market for Pinot Grigio in the USA: "I don't believe in Pinot Grigio, but there is this fashion that has been going on for decades now. That's the wine I bottle the most of..." These are not exceedingly revolutionary visions; you plant what sells.

Chardonnay for spumante production is becoming increasingly important at higher altitudes. Matteo Moser (Moser Francesco): "Until a few years ago, Trento DOC base wines were produced on the valley floor near Trento and on the lower slopes. Now this production is rapidly rising to the top, displacing Müller-Thurgau in the Cembra Valley."

Müller's limits

More serious consequences for producers than possible qualitative limits are its limits in the market. Even the best Müller-Thurgau must not be expensive. Even for single vineyards, the limit is somewhere around ten euros. That may be a lot for a wine with normal production costs, but for a steep-slope wine it is little. Even if a lot of money is put into communicating "Müller-Thurgau = Valle di Cembra", that doesn't change the fact that the calculation doesn't add up for the winegrowers. No wonder they don't feel comfortable in Müller's grip.

Matteo Moser: "Müller-Thurgau is of decreasing importance for our business. The Cembra Valley is excellent for this variety, but other wines also turn out well. With Müller-Thurgau, customers are simply not willing to pay more than a certain price. For us, therefore, the Metodo Classico is becoming more and more important. Chardonnay and dry Goldmuskateller are also selling well. We are slowly reducing our Müller production at the expense of Chardonnay. In the Valle di Cembra there are strong temperature differences, and a wide variety of altitudes are available, great soils.... our valley can produce great white wines, Müller-Thurgau alone is not able to exploit this potential. Especially with the current climate change, the valley's sites are becoming very, very popular. Not least for Chardonnay production."

Nicola Zanotelli (Zanotelli): "Müller-Thurgau is a young, drinkable, simple, very fruity, sometimes mineral wine. But it can't be much more than that. For this reason, we have also planted other varieties. We think Chardonnay is very interesting, especially as a basic Spumante wine. Among the Spumante houses, the Cembra base wines are very popular. However, a little profit remains, especially with our own sparkling wines. With Müller-Thurgau, you turn over a lot, but there's hardly any added value."

(Source: Merum)

From saviour to autocrat

Some complain about the monopoly position of the Trentino cellar cooperatives. A hundred years ago, however, they were the winegrowers' salvation. For the farmers were then at the mercy of cold-blooded wine merchants who squeezed them dry. Diego Bolognani: "The cooperation was a reaction to a bad situation of exploitation."

Moreno Nardin: "Before the advent of the Cantine Sociali, all the winegrowers made their own wine. The merchants would come by, taste it and dictate the price. Then they brought the wine to the Fiemme and Fassa valleys. The merchants really blackmailed the winegrowers, because they were their only customers. That, by the way, was also a reason why distillation became so widespread here. Grappa was much easier to sell than wine, and there was no need for intermediaries."

Around 80 per cent of Trentino's winegrowers have a main job and tend their few thousand square metres of vineyard at weekends and in the evenings. Almost without exception, their grapes go to one of the Cantine Sociali.

The small ones produce only a vanishing share of Trentino wine. Nicola Zanotelli: "The 70 or so Trentino self-pressers produce less than ten percent, the few private wineries perhaps as much again, and the large remainder of over 80 percent is produced in the Cantine Sociali."

Mario Pojer does not hold back with his criticism of the supremacy of the cooperative: "The Cantine Sociali paralyse the winegrowers' own initiative. 90 percent of all winegrowers are members of cooperative wineries. It is obvious that the other ten percent have nothing to say. The wine policy of Trentino is not determined by the independent winegrowers, but by cooperation. There are many positive examples around us: Aosta Valley, Valtellina, South Tyrol, but also Bardolino and Valpolicella, all these wine regions are flourishing and successful. Here, things are going backwards, grape prices are falling. Every winegrower who delivers his grapes to the cantina now adds 2,000 to 3,000 euros per hectare. In Trentino, they prefer large-volume brand names. For example, 'delle Venezie IGT', 'Vallagarina IGT' or 'Vigneto delle Dolomiti IGT'. Under these designations, wines from Bolzano to Belluno may be used, which is a huge catchment area. You have to know that Trentino markets 230 to 250 million bottles, while our 10,000 hectares yield 100 million bottles at most. A quantity of wine equivalent to around 50 million bottles is also exported in tankers to Spumante houses outside the region. This means that the remaining bottle potential would not be greater than 50 million bottles! But five times as many are bottled! Among them are wines from the most diverse regions of Italy. All completely legal, with Trentino brand names and supra-regional IGT designations."

This huge business is primarily taken care of by the cooperation. Because the dogma is: do everything to be able to pay the cooperative member the highest possible grape price. Viewed in isolation, this is an extremely laudable resolution. But by acting as a cheap bottler, the Trentino cooperative is consciously or unintentionally pursuing a scorched earth policy. The presence of the Trentino Cantine Sociali is so overwhelming that even private wineries hardly stand a chance next to them. This is because thanks to their trading profits with wines from outside the region, the cooperative wineries can pay more for local grapes and at the same time market their wine at lower prices. Small wineries with comparatively high prices can only survive if they manage to create a niche demand that is favourable to them.

(Source: Merum)

Almost impossible independence

The Trentino winegrowers are mainly sideline workers; the average vineyard size is less than 9,000 square metres, in the Valle di Cembra even half a hectare. Only eight local winegrowers in the Valle di Cembra bottle their wine themselves. A number of wineries based outside also own vineyards here, but the majority of the grapes are processed by the cooperative wineries.

Trentino is certainly one of the most sparsely populated areas with independent winemakers. As one hears, self-employment is not encouraged by local politics. The main problem, however, is not politics, not the lack of a Cembra appellation and not just the capital a young winemaker needs for the wine cellar, but simply that land ownership is usually too low. Anyone who wants to buy additional land currently has to reckon with 400,000 euros per hectare. But a few years ago it was more than double that! Such amounts cannot be amortised with income from wine production.

Another reason why winegrowers have been reluctant to market their own wines is the high grape prices paid by the cooperative wineries. More accurately, however, one would have to say: paid... "After all," says Mario Pojer, "after 2002/2003, when grape prices reached record highs, they collapsed by half in seven years. Grapes used to cost about 1.30 euros per kilo in South Tyrol, and up to 2.20 euros per kilo here. In those years, even some South Tyrolean winegrowers on the border with Trentino changed their minds and became members of one of the Trentino Cantine Sociali. The price difference was too glaring. But then the situation turned around: today we are at 1.00 euro per kilo of grapes, the South Tyroleans at 1.80 euro per kilo."

Diego Bolognani also confirms the decline in grape prices: "On average, the winegrowers receive only 80 to 90 cents for their grapes today." Goffredo Pasolli's prices are only slightly higher: 95 and more for Müller-Thurgau grapes; "for top qualities even sometimes 1.20 euros per kilo."Nicola Zanotelli: "The cantines pay up to 1.10 euros per kilo for Müller-Thurgau. One of them even pays only 70 cents..." Mario Pojer: "That's not enough anywhere! If the farmer doesn't get at least 1.30 or 1.40 euros per kilo for his grapes, he'll add to it."

Goffredo Pasolli: "Depending on the steepness of the vineyard, between 400 and 600 annual hours per hectare are needed in the Valle di Cembra. To be able to live from a vineyard, a family needs at least three or four hectares, if we assume an average income per hectare of 15,000 euros. That gives one person a gross yield of 60,000 euros. If he presses and markets his wine himself, then it can of course be a bit more."

Pojer complains that Trentino wine is sold too cheaply by the cooperation and that this is now taking its revenge: "The Trentino brand no longer works. A bottle of Trentino DOC costs on average two euros and one from South Tyrol four euros. That says it all! What is outrageous is that a Pinot Grigio delle Venezie IGT, a wine from the fertile lowlands, costs between 1.30 and 1.60 euros, and a Pinot Grigio Trentino DOC from cost-intensive vineyards costs 1.60 to 1.80. A price difference of only about 20 cents for such different wines? That's not right!"

(Source: Merum)
The self-pressing producers are acid on the Cantine Sociali, because they cannot compete with their sales prices. Compared to the usual prices for Trentino wine, the winegrowers are all far too expensive. The too low price level also has a disadvantage for quality development. Because if they don't want to be even more expensive, the winegrowers have to keep a strict eye on costs. And since the biggest overhead costs are caused by grape production, there is little room for downward movement in the yield per hectare.

(C)A wine called Cembra

The steep slopes of the Cembra Valley are photogenic and can be used perfectly for wine promotion. This was also noticed by the visitors to Vinitaly at the Trentino wine stand. Large-format photo posters attracted the attention of the visitors to the exhibitors from Trento. However, there was a contradiction between the photos and the wines that was only recognisable to the people themselves: the vine terraces and steep slopes had nothing to do with the fewest of the wines on display, because the photos showed the Cembra Valley, which supplies only a few percent of Trentino's wine.

The Valle di Cembra serves as an anonymous supplier not only of promotional material but also of wine for the wine industry down in Trento and Mezzocorona. The Cembra wines are hidden behind labels that say Trentino DOC, Trento DOC (Spumante) or Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT. There is no such thing as a wine called Cembra. The Cembra Valley as a wine region remains a secret. Cembra does not appear in any protected wine names, although the special growing conditions and over 600 hectares of vineyards would provide sufficient reason for it.

While the designation Südtirol DOC means added value in the specialised trade, this is not the case with Trentino DOC. Diego Bolognani: "In the supermarket, Trentino DOC may work as a selling point, but not in the restaurant or enoteca. This stems from the fact that far too much Trentino DOC is sold at very low prices."

Goffredo Pasolli: "The Trentino DOC system has its advantages, but also its disadvantages. To promote a brand, you need certain quantities, and as a name, Trentino DOC is good because it is memorable. The disadvantage is that our high-quality growing areas come up short."

A group of Cembra winegrowers has recently been trying to step out of anonymity with a private consortium (Cembrani D.O.C.). So there is a strong yearning for Cembra identity among the valley's producers. The brave little group, which also includes two local grappa distillers, communicates via the internet and at all kinds of events. The coordinator, Mara Lona, does her job well. But, this is my objection, all communication, all image work for the wines of the Valle di Cembra must fall flat as long as the labels of these winegrowers remain anonymous and the elaborately constructed brand name "Cembra" does not appear as a protected name of origin on the bottle.

Nicola Zanotelli: "The additional designation Cembra to Trentino DOC would probably be the best solution. But with strict rules! Unfortunately, the idea is not well received politically, people turn a deaf ear to our justifications. So we can't put the name Cembra on the label."

But apparently you can: the wines of the Valle di Cembra cellar cooperative have exactly what they should have on the label: "Cembra"! The name of the valley is prominently displayed on the bottle in large letters, with a smaller one underneath: "Cantina di Montagna". A very cleverly chosen brand name.

However, there is a fundamental difference between a private label and an appellation: unlike a private label, the quality and origin of an appellation must be certified. The appellation name is only accessible to producers who abide by the production rules.

Moreno Nardin (Cembra Cantina di Montagna): "I would love to offer a 'Cembra' and not a Müller-Thurgau detached from our vineyards. I have only one doubt: Trentino produces only a tiny part of Italian wine. If we now break this production down even further into small sub-areas, it will weaken communication even more."

I am certainly not a separatist and I also think that unity makes strong also in wine communication: the Cembra Valley is part of the Trentino system and should not be split off from it. But just as communication in favour of the Volnay appellation simultaneously promotes the "Bourgogne" brand, any investment in "Cembra Trentino DOC" also benefits the "Trentino DOC" brand. And vice versa!

(Source: Merum)

Appellation or bureaucratic dust catcher?

I am actually surprised that the idea of a separate appellation has not long been on the priority list of winegrowers. I understand that the wine industry cannot be interested in differentiating wine production. But anyone who owns a vineyard would have to have the greatest interest in linking his production to the territory and thus qualifying it. Most of the interlocutors were able to accept the idea of a sub-region designation - Cembra Trentino DOC.

On the other hand, I did not receive much approval for my proposal that only one wine should bear this designation, a white wine consisting of Müller-Thurgau and other white varieties.

I clearly prefer a permissive production regulation for an area that is still in dynamic motion, even in the choice of varieties, to a hodgepodge DOC all'italiana. Either way, the diversity of vineyards in the Cembra Valley means that several varieties have to be used.

The winegrowers objected that they not only produce white wines, but also spumante, rosé, red and sweet wines.... These should also be allowed to bear the new name. But I would not recommend this because a brand would remain without any penetrating power for a multitude of products. There are countless examples of such uncommunicable wine DOCs in Italy: useless dust collectors of the wine scene.

The main purpose of my interventions is to encourage my counterparts to react, not to tell them how to do it. But if it were up to me, there would be no mercy: one wine region, one DOC, one wine! That's something that can be communicated!

After all, no one would forbid the winegrowers to interpret the character of the new Cembra Trentino DOC themselves, to fill this vessel with varieties that turn out best in their sites, and to label the remaining wines as they have done so far. They would have nothing to lose with this model.

Dear readers, the Cembra Valley may be more virgin to tourism than its inhabitants would like, but we visitors are still offered a lot. Those who like grappa are spoilt for choice here: at Pojer & Sandi, over the hill, in Faedo, or at Pilzer in Faver, they are happy to welcome any interested visitor. In the middle of Cembra, on the main road, the Zanotelli family has set up a spacious enoteca where you can also sit down and taste the wines of the Azienda.

This article was made available to us by the Merum editorial team. You can find out more about Merum, the magazine for wine and olive oil from Italy, here:
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(Source: Merum)

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