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Syrah cave BiberEvery now and then I buy a tasting box at a winery I hardly know yet, but which convinces me at a tasting. It's the famous, somewhat hackneyed image of the "cat you don't buy in a bag". That's what happened in autumn, on my first visit to Cave Biber in Salgesch. Salgesch? Yes, the wine village on the border between the German-speaking Upper Valais and the French-speaking Lower Valais. There, where there is a quality label of its own, the "Salgesch Crand cru". This standard, introduced by the winegrowers 20 years ago - with strict rules and an equally strict jury - is very appealing to me, not least because of one of the rules: "Ageing in barriques is expressly forbidden". This brings us much closer to the terroir, to the origin of the wines. But this is another chapter.

But origin plays an important role at Cave Biber. My first impression when I entered the imposing little arena of the vineyards: Wow. Steep cliffs, vineyards on the slopes, the little river Raspille (which forms the language border) runs through the arena, which is open towards the south. There, somewhat off to the side, almost hidden, we find the wine cellar (with tasting room) of Jürg Biber, who says: "I am firmly convinced that the real secret of the business is that the respective variety is in its optimal location." And the location, according to my first impression, is great. But so are the wines. "Authentic", I agree wholeheartedly with the winemaker.Cave Biber

I don't like to rely on first, spontaneous impressions - at least when it comes to wine. So many things come together: the experience, the encounter with the winemaker, not least the weather and my personal mood. Even if the first judgement is important, I would like to find the experience in the wine - at a different time, in a different mood, in a different place. Maybe not the same, but with the same intensity.

From the tasting package (12 bottles), I opened the Syrah first. One of my favourite grape varieties. The southern Rhone (Côte Rôtie, Hermitage etc.) is well known to me. But also the Australian Syrah (Shiraz) - recently reviewed in "Getrunken" - arouse my curiosity, and "now and then" my enthusiasm. Can this Valais Syrah somehow classify itself, even measure up? It can. It can, above all, through its independence. Not a pleasant, supple Syrah that melts so easily on the palate. No, a wine with "racy tannins" (according to the product description) and with a lot of those spicy notes that I always look for in Syrah and often (unfortunately) don't find. A peppery wine, right into the finish. Here, however - in the finish - somewhat bitter, more bitter than bitter chocolate, and that's a good thing, because the supposed sweetness all too often "sugars up" the finish in Syrah.

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