The Ruhr region is Germany's largest conurbation—and home to a young gastronomy scene and wine community, which has found its own style between beer, grain and top-quality wine. Sebastian Bordthäuser was there for us.
The reputation of the Ruhr region is tainted with clichés like coal dust. But the region, whose prosperity and cultural identity was once based on mining, has become a flourishing conurbation: The "Pott" symbolises the transformation of a once dominated coal and steel region into a modern metropolitan region with a service economy, science and culture. Its multicultural identity, including football and industrial monuments such as the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Zeche Zollverein" in Essen (pictured above), underpins its unique history as Germany's largest conurbation.
The Ruhr region stretches for around 75 kilometres from Dortmund in the east to Duisburg in the west, where the eponymous river Ruhr flows into the Rhine. This huge melting pot also includes a culinary scene that goes far beyond the obligatory currywurst or "Pommes Schranke" (translated literally "chips barrier": chips with ketchup and mayonnaise, so covered in red and white like a railroad barrier). Alongside the traditional drinking establishments with schnapps and export beer, a highly dynamic, young scene cooks to the standards of the day and nonchalantly pours the perfect wine to go with it.
Admittedly, if you live in Dortmund's Kreuzviertel neighbourhood, you won't necessarily drive an hour to Duisburg for a snack on a Tuesday evening—but it's no different in Berlin. There is also a decisive factor: the "Pott" has remained genuine. Whilst foreigners are mainly attracted to the industrial monuments or museums, the Ruhr region offers real experiences without tourist traps. Instead, there is a wide variety of gastronomic offerings: Those who want to celebrate the street style can enjoy a Fiege Pils with a "taxi plate" (currywurst with chips, gyros, tzatziki, and onions)—or order a finely composed vegetarian menu with a Barolo from Giuseppe Rinaldi. From chip shops to Michelin-starred restaurants: the range on offer today is more colourful, surprising, and interesting than ever before. These are good reasons to drink your way through the wine lists from the east to the banks of the Rhine in the west.
Address: Wiesenstraße 23A, 58452 Witten
Opening hours: Tue-Fri from 18:00, Sat from 17:00, Sun and Mon closed
Phone: +49 2302 9166867
Website: schmits-weinbar.de
Instagram: schmits.restaurant
Schmits Weinbar in Witten's Wiesenviertel neighbourhood combines sophisticated, modern cuisine with a first-class wine selection. Head chef Felix Beneken, former sous-chef at Le Moissonnier in Cologne (two Michelin stars at the time), grew up in Witten and returned home after a few stops. He conjures up French-based cuisine with international influences on the plates, while owner and sommelier Julius Schippmann always provides the right wine by the glass with expertise and passion. Katharina Schmidt's professional service leaves nothing to be desired, whether it's just a glass at the bar or the entire menu. The atmosphere is relaxed and elegant, ideal for a relaxed evening with friends or an intimate meal for two.
Address: Rheinische Straße 12, 44137 Dortmund
Opening hours: Wed-Fri 17:00-22:00, Sat 12:00-14:30 & 17:00-22:00, Sun and Mon closed
Email: dante@labsal.de
Website: labsal-dortmund.de
Instagram: labsal_dortmund
Labsal in Dortmund has been offering the best Swabian food with international influences, an impressive wine selection and a precise eye for quality since 2017. With a clear commitment to craftsmanship, the products and ingredients used are sourced from the region, mostly from organic farming or cultivation. The 400-strong wine list also focuses on organic and biodynamically produced wines. Labsal is a meeting place where craftsmanship, honest flavours and a relaxed yet committed atmosphere take centre stage. As the owners have more ambitions than tables, I highly recommend booking in advance.
Address: Kaiserstrasse 24, 44135 Dortmund
Opening hours: Tue-Thu 17:00-22:00, Fri & Sat 17:00-22:30, Sun and Mon closed
Phone: +49 231 13755074
Website: yam.as
Instagram: yamas_meze_dortmund
Yamas is a modern mezé restaurant with a wine bar that reinterprets Greek food culture: small, freshly prepared specialities in a sharing format (mezédes) invite you to discover them. In addition to the excellent flavours, the focus here is always on the togetherness at the table that is at home in Greek gastronomy. There is also a large selection of Greek and European wines, accompanied by expert advice to round off the Mediterranean menu. The atmosphere is open and informal: Whether you start the evening with a glass of wine, share mezédes or just finish with a tsípouro—Yamas is the right place for a relaxed evening among friends or as a stopover while strolling through the city. The Yamas flagship store in Bochum is located right next to the railway station.
Address: Königsallee 1, 44789 Bochum
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 17:30-23:00, Sun and Mon closed
Phone: +49 234 6100 9985
Email: dante@labsal.de
Website: allez-bochum.de
Instagram: allez_bochum
In the heart of Bochum's Bermuda Triangle, Bistro Allez focuses on French-inspired cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Head chef Boris Geigenmüller trained at Diergardts in Hattingen and worked as a chef in the well-known restaurants "Five" and "Livingroom" before setting up his own business. Together with his partner Flo, he serves modern bistro cuisine with a clear line: seasonal ingredients, contemporary flavours and a small, well thought-out selection of wines invite you into the small but fine bistro.
Address: Universitätsstraße 110, 44799 Bochum
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 12:00-21:00, Sat and Sun closed
Email: hi@kantine.wtf
Website: kantine.wtf
Instagram: kantine.wtf
In the Seven Stones neighbourhood in the south of Bochum, kantine.wtf has quickly established itself as an urban meeting place for modern cuisine. The combination of industrial charm, local products with seasonal accents, and international flavours is also reflected in the compact, well-curated wine list with a European focus. The interior with its urban flair and open-plan feel is timelessly inviting, whether for lunch with a glass of "save the midday wine", a snack in between or dinner in the evening. A place where high gastronomic standards are effortlessly combined with everyday comfort.
Address: Hellweg 28–30, 44787 Bochum
Opening hours: Wed-Sat 19:00-0:00, Sun-Tues closed
Phone: +49 234 9535685
Website: five-bochum.de
Instagram: five_bochum
Five in Bochum is a small, fine dining restaurant with a simple yet successful formula: you eat what's on the table. Sommelier and chef Tibor Werzel and his sidekick Nicolai Menting offer two five-course menus, accompanied by five appropriately selected drinks and a separate wine list. The minimalist concept has been incredibly successful: tables are often booked out weeks in advance. The menu is chosen at the time of booking and when you visit, all you have to do is indulge in unrestrained pleasure. It can all be so simple.
Address: Alte Hattinger Straße 31, 44789 Bochum
Opening hours: Wed-Sat from 17:00, Sun from 12:00, closed Mon and Tue
Phone: +49 234 97645666
Website: zumgruenengaul.de
Instagram: zumgruenengaul
In Bochum's Ehrenfeld district, the Zum Grünen Gaul restaurant and pub stands for warm, communicative hospitality with down-to-earth cuisine, from classic regional to modern interpretations. The pub with its long bar and lively atmosphere combines home-made dishes with a wine and drinks menu that appeals to those with local roots as well as wine and beer fans from further afield. A large proportion of the ingredients come from friendly, regional producers. People meet here for a casual dinner or just a glass of wine—a neighbourhood place that combines cosiness with a solid level of enjoyment.
Address: Am Büchsenschütz 15, 45527 Hattingen
Opening hours: Wed-Fri 18:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, closed Mon and Tue
Phone: +49 2324 96030
Website: diergardt-hattingen.de
Instagram: diergardtskuehlergrund
In the heart of Hattingen-Welper is the traditional restaurant "Diergardts Kühler Grund", which has been combining classic, regional cuisine with a modern twist since 1904. The food served here is solidly crafted, seasonal and surprising—from hearty country house classics to fine Mediterranean accents. Owner Philipp Diergardt trained as a chef in the best restaurants and then completed an apprenticeship as a winemaker. This combination is reflected in the excellently curated menu and the bombproof wine recommendations to accompany the dishes. The ambience in the large dining room and on the terrace is warm and inviting, whether as a casual get-together with friends or a feisty feast with the family.
Address: Kortumstraße 47, 45130 Essen
Opening hours: Tue-Thu 18:00-21:00, Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 18:00-23:00, Sun and Mon closed
Phone: +49 201 50999649
Website: la-petite-cave-de-jeannette.de
Instagram: lapetitecavedejeannette
The small bistro with French esprit in the heart of Essen-Rüttenscheid impresses with seasonal, creative cuisine and fine wines. Head chef Jeannette Schnitzler combines Mediterranean, French and regional influences in changing menus and à la carte creations, while host Peter Schnitzler provides expert advice on wines. The bistro is a member of Slow Food.
Address: Emmastraße 2, 45130 Essen
Opening hours: Tue 13:00-19:00, Wed-Thu 16:30-23:00, Fri 16:30-23:00, Sat 11:30-16:00 & 19:00-23:00, Sun & Mon closed
Phone: +49 201 74927278
Website: emma2.de
Instagram: emma2_weinbar
In the heart of Rüttenscheid, Rainer Podzuck runs "Emma 2", one of the most original wine bars in the Ruhr region. Small, charming and a packed wine list with over 800 items from all over the world—this is how "Emma 2" functions as a wine shop during the day, while in the evening the bar invites you to discover wine without a plan. Rainer is sommelier, owner, and wine list in one and pours the guests pure wine—from Lambrusco to Mouton Rothschild. Small, typical wine bar snacks are served as drinking aids. A wonderful place for the curious and open-minded wine fans!
Address: Dahlhauser Straße 173, 45279 Essen
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 17:30-23:00, Sun & Mon closed
Phone: +49 201 534506
Website: restaurant-hannappel.de
Instagram: restauranthannappel
Restaurant Hannappel is located somewhat off the beaten track in the Horst district of Esse— those who arrive here do not come by chance, but with a clear intention: because of Tobias Weyers' clearly defined cuisine and René Sampaio's cleverly curated wine list. The restaurant was founded in 1908 as a miners' pub and developed into a culinary institution in the region under Knut Hannappel. The Michelin star came with Weyers in 2019. He describes his cuisine succinctly as "simply delicious", while René Sampaio's wine list focuses on Europe with a particular emphasis on Portugal. Non-alcoholic pairings are also an integral part of the concept and are considered in the kitchen. Hannappel is exemplary of the new "Pott": down-to-earth in appearance, precise in execution—and with a real flair for contemporary enjoyment.
Address: Dellstraße 36, 47051 Duisburg
Opening hours: Tue-Mi 12:00-16:00, Wed-Fri 18:00-24:00, Sat, Sun and Mon closed
Phone: +49 203 22921
Website: mimierosa.de
Instagram: mimi_e_rosa
Mimi e Rosa is one of those addresses in Duisburg's Dellviertel neighbourhood that you discover and immediately remember: casual, personal, with an unerring flair for wine and Italian cuisine. The former espresso bar has been transformed into a small trattoria, where compact, clear product cuisine is served to the point. Ligurian influences meet classic pasta, fresh fish soups and seasonal dishes—precisely composed to match the well-stocked wine list. The ambience is open and informal, with plenty of space for a good glass and lively conversation. The wine selection ranges from interesting natural wines to classic favourites that will leave you wanting more.