The "Wine Paris" trade fair overtook ProWein with over 50,000 visitors and 5,300 exhibitors. They were in high spirits - and had good reason to be. But not everything shone in Paris, reports Mathias Stelzig.
"Over twenty international contacts," says Stephan Attmann and scrolls down his list on the phone with a smile, "seven of them from new countries". It's only midday on the second day of the fair. The Managing Director of the Palatinate VDP wine estate Von Winning from Deidesheim is enthusiastic and welcomes two friends from Germany. They are all raving about the restaurant visits the previous evening. "With the prices at ProWein," complains one, "I'd rather go home in the evening.".
You hear conversations like this at every corner of the trade fair. The trade fair organiser VinExposium reports 5,300 exhibitors and 52,622 visitors, and they are consistently enthusiastic. The trade fair organisers repeatedly mention the increasing international participation: Exhibitors from 54 countries occupied 80 per cent more space this time than last year and served their wines to visitors from 154 countries. Foreign guests made up 45 per cent of the public, 28 per cent more than last year.
Full halls, a good atmosphere and many new contacts: The trade fair particularly impressed foreign exhibitors.
J.B. NadeauThe race to catch up with the leading trade fair ProWein had already been announced. However, it was not foreseeable that the result would be so clearly in favour of Wine Paris. Austria (+35%), China (+60%), Germany (+65%), Romania (+75%) and Australia (+300%) recorded double-digit increases in exhibition space. However, almost all of them booked a joint stand for around 20 to 50 exhibitors. In the reality of the trade fair days, the increase of 50 per cent therefore still results in a manageable total number. The situation is different for the wineries from Spain, however, with an increase of 40 per cent. But above all others, Italy has doubled its already by far largest participation. This now includes 30 large regional pavilions.
All of the French regions only recorded an increase of seven per cent, but still account for the largest share. Düsseldorf is also feeling the effects of this development: there are 71 per cent fewer French producers at ProWein this year than in the record year of 2019.
There was plenty of entertainment for guests from all over the world in Paris: in the "Be Spirits" hall, there were almost 300 exhibitors and the 40-metre-long "Indefinite Bar", where new mixology trends were presented. The "Non-alcoholic and low-alcohol" segment also grew by 76 per cent. There were also 110 seminars and masterclasses with over 250 lecturers. Furthermore, the day before the opening, the "V d'Or" prize was awarded, a business award from the drinks industry, whose jury included Michel Chapoutier, Edourado Chadwick and Mario Piccini.
But the reality is different from the hype and record-breaking news: A lot of things are going very similarly to Düsseldorf. But the mood is good and is epitomised by Rodolphe Lameyse. The CEO of organiser Vinexposium likes to turn the big wheel when he talks about the trade fair: "In times of uncertainty, economic crisis and loss of importance, isolationism is not an option. We can only find solutions by joining forces and combining business and politics."
The wine industry is officially taken very seriously in Paris: The patron is once again President Manuel Macron himself. The opening was also attended by members of parliament, senators and over 30 official foreign delegations with ambassadors and ministers of state. Three French ministers - for agriculture, foreign trade and tourism - each gave a speech.
It was noticeable right from the start of the fair: Wine Paris has improved in terms of organisation compared to the previous year. Visitors were able to enter the international hall without having to show their ticket for the second time. The Italian exhibitors also felt much more at home: "Last year we were so isolated," says Pierangelo Tommasi, "not even customers with appointments found us. This year, we were at least together with all the Italians at our stand."
"We are looking for an importer for our Ammura," explains Annalisa Armani. The Etna vineyard is the latest addition to the Tommasi family, who have been buying up vineyards all over Italy from Valpolicella. "The wines are only sold on allocation," explains the export manager. Wine Paris is particularly ideal for this because of the many high-quality contacts - and the demand from retailers for premium wines. Names of countries such as the USA, China, Japan, Canada, Singapore and Hong Kong are repeatedly mentioned by exhibitors like her when they talk about their discussions. If retailers and importers from France are looking for new wines, it is mainly high-quality wines from Italy.
Katja Pronegg, marketing specialist for the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter, agrees with this impression: "Düsseldorf is a good place to cultivate contacts and to be seen." As a result, the association has booked a large joint stand at Weine Paris - but not in Düsseldorf. Many, such as Tommasi, are caught between two stools and grudgingly exhibit at two trade fairs.
Paris also appeals to both because it is easy to get to. Flights can usually be booked directly and are often cheaper than to Düsseldorf. Even for German winegrowers, the journey may be longer, but it doesn't necessarily take any longer. The TGV is also more comfortable than the Deutsche Bahn and the arrival is much more reliable.
Some international winegrowers also receive a subsidy from their association or another organisation to enable them to exhibit in Paris. This makes the trade fair even more appealing to them. Exhibitors also praise the online platform for business contacts, which many like better than its counterpart in Düsseldorf. In addition, there is the good food in the restaurant in the evening and, above all, the reasonably priced accommodation. After all, trade fair visitors in Paris hardly stand out among the 50 million overnight stays per year. There are therefore simply no astronomically high trade fair prices in Paris. On balance, the accommodation costs remain the biggest and most important negative point of ProWein for exhibitors.
At second glance, however, some aspects do not quite keep pace with the new, global claim: Some participants notice the rather outdated furnishings, and the orientation is not particularly good either. The international hall, for example, is accessed via an escalator, but this is poorly signposted. In addition, seminars on French regions and topics were usually only held in French. Some stewards and assistants are also unable to answer questions in English at least.
Despite the record number of visitors, the halls are only moderately full on the last day of Wine Paris. Some exhibitors only open their stands later in the morning. This could have something to do with the city's excellent gastronomic offerings. Business or not: Paris is always worth a trip for wine professionals.