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Since Germany has been experiencing a renaissance and can once again rightly count itself among the best white wine producers in the world, a certain arrogance - it seems - has spread among the country's wine drinkers. Those who deny Italy's ability to produce first-class whites can be sure of general approval, at least as long as they leave South Tyrol out of it. Is this arrogance, ignorance or, in the end, a strange German (or German-speaking) "We-are-who-again", which is just right at a time when dull national sentiments are threatening to become socially acceptable again? An apartheid of grape varieties in which not much counts except Riesling and perhaps its children and a few Burgundy varieties?