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Lugana has many more facets than one might think if one is only familiar with the simple, always somewhat sweet sales hit from our pubs and bistros. First of all, there are also such good examples of sweet Lugana that the sometimes somewhat obtrusive residual sugar is rather detrimental to them, because it prevents them from really showing off their existing finesse.

One would wish the winemakers in question a little more self-confidence. They would be the ones who could prevent the same thing from happening to Lugana as happened to other wine fads before it: at some point, the hype is over - and the reputation of the region is thoroughly ruined.

Perla del Garda, for example, shows that it can be done differently. Its 2013 Madonna della Scoperta is not only completely dry, but also has more character and depth than most of the competition, despite its unusually low alcohol content. Moreover, despite its age, it is still fresh, whereas most Lugana is better drunk in the first year after the harvest. Riserve should therefore be treated with a certain amount of caution, as some of them seem a little dull when they first appear on the market.

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