Lugana has many more facets than one might think if one is only familiar with the simple, always somewhat sweet sales hit from our pubs and bistros. First of all, there are also such good examples of sweet Lugana that the sometimes somewhat obtrusive residual sugar is rather detrimental to them, because it prevents them from really showing off their existing finesse.
One would wish the winemakers in question a little more self-confidence. They would be the ones who could prevent the same thing from happening to Lugana as happened to other wine fads before it: at some point, the hype is over - and the reputation of the region is thoroughly ruined.
Perla del Garda, for example, shows that it can be done differently. Its 2013 Madonna della Scoperta is not only completely dry, but also has more character and depth than most of the competition, despite its unusually low alcohol content. Moreover, despite its age, it is still fresh, whereas most Lugana is better drunk in the first year after the harvest. Riserve should therefore be treated with a certain amount of caution, as some of them seem a little dull when they first appear on the market.
An exception are the few Lugana that have been deliberately vinified with oxidation, which are somewhat reminiscent of wines from the French Jura and still seem timeless even after many years. With their very special aroma, they will probably not appeal to most Lugana friends, but they are nevertheless among the most interesting wines of the region. Unfortunately, consumers have no way of telling from the label what kind of Lugana they are getting.
We tasted around 120 wines for BEST OF, and as always we have compiled the best of them into a handy PDF.
You can find links to all the wines tasted by clicking on the respective headings.
- 88WP 010, Bulgarini
- 88WP Melibéo, Santi
- 88WP I Frati, Ca dei Frati
- 88WP Lugilet, Loda
- 88WP Zamichele
- 88WP Montunal, Montonale
- 88HP Bertoletta
- 87HP Il Rivale 90+10, Pratello
- 87HP Molin, Cà Maiol
- 86WP San Benedetto, Zenato
- 86WP Il Lugana, La Collina dei Ciliegi
- 86HP S. Christina "Massoni", Zenato
- 86HP Mandolaria, Le Morette
- 86WP Vigne Alte, Zeni
- 86HP Marogne, Zeni
- 86WP Conchiglia, Citari
- 86WP Arilica, Il Pilandro
- 86WP Pansere, Fraccaroli
- 86WP Bosco
- 86WP Cascia Ardea, Tognazzi
- 86WP Santa Sofia
- 86WP Cromalgo, Corte Sermana
- 86WP Selva, Selva Capuzza
- 86WP Cento Filari, Cesari
- 86WP Vigni Fenil Bòl, Turina
- 86HP Olivini
- 85HP Folár, Santi
- 85WP Il Germano, Seiterre
- 85HP San Vigillo, Selva Capuzza
- 85HP Il Lugana, Pasini San Giovanni
- 85WP Prestige, Cà Maiol
- 85WP Bulgarini
- 85WP Limne, Roveglia
- 85WP Perla del Garda
- 85WP Franco Visconti, Antica Casa Visconti
- 85HP Eufrasia, Sgreva
- 85HP Biocòra, La Pergola
- 85HP Matteo Zenagaglia
- 85WP Ca'Lojera, Ca'Lojera
- 89WP Molin, Cà Maiol
- 88WP Benedictus, Le Morette
- 88WP Brolettino, Ca dei Frati
- 88WP Selva, Selva Capuzza
- 87HP La Sansonina
- 87WP Il Lugana, La Collina dei Ciliegi
- 87HP Fabio Contato, Cà Maiol
- 87WP Demesse Vecchie, Olivini
- 87WP Sant'Onorata 1953, Nunzio Ghiraldi
- 87WP Gardé, Zamichele
- 86WP I Frati, Ca dei Frati
- 85WP Monte Lupo, Cobue
- 89WP 2013 Madonna della Scoperta, Perla del Garda
- 88WP 2014 Sergio Zenato, Zenato
- 88WP 2013 Riserva, Le Morette
- 88WP 2011 Riserva Il Rintocco, Marangona
- 88WP 2008 Menasasso, Selva Capuzza
- 88WP 2008 Cà Lojera
- 88WP 2012 Riserva Busocaldo, Pasini San Giovanni
- 87WP 2014 Zonafranca, Casello Bondoni
- 87WP 2013 Madre Perla, Perla del Garda
- 86WP 2009 Madre Perla, Perla del Garda
- 86WP 2014 Riserva 1912, Fraccaroli
- 86WP 2012 Riserva Il Rintocco, Marangona
- 86WP 2014 Filo di Arianna vendimmia tardiva, Roveglia
- 86WP 2014 Riserva Vigne di Catullo, Roveglia
- 85WP 2012 Menasasso, Selva Capuzza
- 85WP 2014 Riserva del Lupo, Ca'Lojera
Pictures: Consorzio Tutela Lugana D.O.C.
