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It's peanuts in the Baden wine industry: according to figures from the Federal Statistical Office, the share of table wine in Baden was 0.2 percent in 2017. Regardless of this, Baden's country wine vintners are currently attracting attention and movement in the wine world. They are using a supposedly inferior quality classification to make "their" wine, far removed from stylistic constraints. Their crystallisation point is the Badische Landweinmarkt in Müllheim. And since the third edition with patron Jancis Robinson, at the latest, it has been the talk of the town.

It is 26 April 2016 - a holiday for many winegrowers in the Markgräflerland. The day of the Müllheim wine market, the oldest wine market in Germany. As every year, vintners from the South Baden region meet here to taste the wines of their colleagues, to talk shop, to discuss. Country winegrowers are allowed to taste here. But they are not allowed to display their wines at this time, nor are they allowed to do so at the Baden Wine Fair in Offenburg. So the four Markgräfler winegrowers Hanspeter Ziereisen, Dirk Brenneisen, Max Geitlinger and Karl-Heinz Ruser hatched a plan on the same day: "Then we'll start our own wine market Incidentally, the inspiration for the quartet did not come over a glass of wine - but over a gin and tonic at the bar of a Müllheim country hotel.