My wine friend Max-Georg always speaks of "sparkling water" when he means champagne. He has created many a misunderstanding with this. Is champagne really "only" an expensive "sparkling water" or is it quality wine after all? This question has been bothering me for a long time.
20 million bottles of champagne in the vaults of Pommery |
So I accepted an invitation from wine enthusiasts to Reims, right in the heart of Champagne. As a student of art history, I once visited this city several times. But back then, I didn't notice the many Champagne producers with resounding names, nor the famous vineyards of the "Coteaux de la Montagne". All my attention was focused on culture: on the Gothic cathedral "Notre-Dame" from the 12th century, on the "Palais du Montre" from the 18th century. The Basilica of Saint-Remi, where the twin brother of Romulus (founder of Rome) is buried, or the 17th and 18th century buildings of the former monastery of Saint-Remi. and 18th centuries, where historical testimonies from prehistoric times to the Second World War are now presented.
Today, forty years later, I see none of that. There is not enough time even for a cursory glance at the world-famous cathedral. But even the vineyards where the grapes for the champagne grow remain hidden from me: fog, fog, fog...
116 steps to the 18 km underground cellar |
For the first time, I have the impression that champagne can be something more than just a "luxury good" or sparkling "bubbly water", as a companion in noble moments: New Year, birthday, wedding or simply intermission of a concert, opera or theatre.
Ghislain de Montgolfier's welcome at Bollinger Castle |
I am still moving in the area of cuvées without a vintage, I dare not speak of vintage champagnes. The price alone prevents a somewhat broader tasting experience. A "Bollinger" "Brut Grande Année 1999" costs a hefty 85 euros, a "Brut RD 1996" almost twice that, 140 euros (guide prices). Pommery is somewhat cheaper, but far less exclusive: "Brut Cuvée Louise 1998" is available for 116 euros, the Brut Crand Cru 1998 even for 37 euros. And Roederer can be compared to Bollinger in terms of price: Brut Cristal 1999, for example, costs 132 euros....
Only now, when I look up the guide prices in the wine guide, do I get a "shiver down my spine". This reminds me of Bordeaux.
To conclude the Reims journey, we are served a "Cristal 1999" (Roederer) from a Jéroboam before an eight-course menu. Sparkling, fresh, noble, beautiful also in the aromas, changing, developing on the palate. I enjoyed it! But did I really respect and enjoy this drop as much as a Bordeaux from the same price range? No!
Art in the cellar of Pommery |
Champagne remains an unknown beauty for me: attractive, enjoyable, noble and - with a little longer engagement - definitely as excitingly nuanced as a great Bordeaux.
With a first, tentative step, I set out in search of good cuvées without a vintage. Comprehensive tastings, as they usually appear in wine magazines before the holidays, were helpful to me. Recommended: Henriot: Brut Souverain (26 ), rated 17/20 in the "Revue du Vin de France". But then I also tested it extensively - despite my naivety about champagne: Louis Roederer: Brut Premier, very fresh, with a lot of finesse and above all beautiful length. And Moët et Chandon "Brut impérial", from the world's most famous house of champagnes: idiosyncratic in character, nothing of "sparkling water", rather elegant, with almost salty notes in the finish... All these wines cost around 30 euros.
Ready for tasting |
But what am I writing, what am I - amateur - quoting from my spontaneous notes? Imposture or an attempt to turn "sparkling water" into a differentiated, French top wine that can be enjoyed and described with just as much nuance as a great Bordeaux? There is still a long way to go until then. I will practise, practise, practise..... So the coming festive season will be very welcome to me. Cheers!
Yours sincerely, Peter
(Züllig)
NB. I also drank a Bollinger "R.D" (récemment dégorgé) 1996 in Reims. But it left me speechless!