Many wine lovers only open mature bottles for special occasions. But a mature wine can also shine with everyday dishes and elevate them to a new level. Top sommelier Paula Bosch reveals great pairings for every day.
In many wine cellars, a number of mature wines lie dormant, eagerly awaiting their big day. Some wine lovers keep them like precious treasures and wait decades for the right moment. Others perhaps just don't know how to combine mature wines with their everyday cuisine.
But it's not that difficult, says Germany's best-known sommelier Paula Bosch: "Basically, I find food pairings with mature wines much simpler and less complicated than with young, generally unripe or undeveloped wines. This is confirmed by my years of experience."
The primary fruity flavours are usually very engaging and prominent, while more mature wines often play with softer tones, says Paula Bosch. "Young wines are like babies, they are loud, scream and attract everyone's attention. Over time, wines - like people - develop more complex facets that are often softer than in young wines. Matured notes blend perfectly with many dishes."
The question of when a wine should be considered mature is a problem in itself. "I'm sure that opinions are already divided here. In my first time at the 'Tantris' restaurant, neither a very young Bordeaux nor a Burgundy, nor a two- or three-year-old German Riesling were allowed on the wine list. Owner Fritz Eichbauer was passionate about serving his beloved wines in the best possible condition. I have continued to pursue this approach," explains Paula Bosch.
But when a wine is ready to drink is always a personal judgement. "Today, wine connoisseurs' tastes have clearly developed in the direction of freshness and youth. This is a huge advantage because many restaurants lack the capital and space," says Bosch.
The disadvantage: in the catering trade and also at home, wines are generally drunk far too young. "It's like serving a steak immediately after the animal has been slaughtered without allowing it to mature. You're chewing on it just as much as the tannins of an unripe Barolo, Bordeaux or Brunello."
On the other hand, Paula Bosch encourages wine lovers not to leave their mature wines for too long. "You never know when a wine has passed its peak. Every wine should be enjoyed at its ideal moment." There is no need for a special occasion to take a top wine out of the cellar. "If I fancy a mature Château Latour, I open the fridge and see what might go well with it," says Bosch. And if the wine really doesn't harmonise with the dish, I leave it and enjoy it after the meal."
Elisabetta Foradori's Granato goes wonderfully with a beef goulash with polenta, among other things.
Raffaella Usai"With the charismatic 2009 Granato, Elisabetta Foradori shows that you can make a great red wine from the rustic Teroldego grape variety. With longer maturation, I discover elderberry juice, clove, juniper and black pepper, which suddenly makes me think of a distant kinship with the Syrah of the Rhône Valley. With its soft and velvety tannins, this wine is an excellent accompaniment to stews such as goulash, game ragout, lamb curry or beef roulades."
"The 2010 Batuta 'Tinto' has a very broad, developed bouquet and smells of dried herbs, plums, tomatoes, beetroot and dried figs. Ripe dark fruits such as blueberries and bilberries also resonate. Spicy notes of black pepper, nutmeg, vanilla and tobacco are also present. With its still youthful tannins and substance, this wine is a wonderful accompaniment to rich, rustic grilled dishes such as sausages or steak with potatoes. Or sweet peppers."
"This Riesling from Nikolaihof has a brilliantly structured aroma. It begins with mature, fruity notes of candied apple, ripe honeydew melon and stone fruit. These are joined by fresh garden herbs such as chervil, chives, vermouth herb, morels and tertiary notes. Spring immediately springs to mind. And therefore a risotto with peas and fresh mushrooms. I can also imagine a meat or fish aspic with herb quark, as well as asparagus with chopped egg, parsley and olive oil.
"Even in Germany, word has long since got around that some red wines go at least as well with certain fish dishes as white wine. However, you have to watch out for the tannin, because it doesn't harmonise at all with fish protein. Otherwise the combination tastes metallic, like the silvery paper from the chocolate packet. Therefore: if red wine, then matured, or a grape variety with little tannin such as Pinot Noir. I recommend the basic Pinot Noir from Martin Waßmer. With its woody aromas of damp leaves and pine needles, accompanied by a touch of wood and red berry fruit, it goes wonderfully with breaded char or butter-fried salmon with mashed potatoes. Despite its maturity, it is still juicy, fresh and lively. The flavour is characterised by animating acidity, which ensures a fine drinking flow."
"I have been teaching at the Haus Buchenriede adult education centre on Lake Starnberg for over ten years. One of my seminars was about mature wines and the question of how basic white wines develop over five to ten years. The favourite of all participants was the then nine-year-old 2015 Müller-Thurgau from the unknown small family winery Wilfried Völcker in the Palatinate. The wine cost 4.50 euros from the farm at the time and initially served only as a negative example in the tasting. My expectations were along the lines of showing an old, overripe wine that would be anything but enjoyable to drink. However, this Müller-Thurgau from Völcker clearly showed that we should forget about wine myths. The still spicy, nutmeg-like bouquet with its vegetal character immediately made me think of a vegetable ratatouille. It can be served hot or cold, on its own or with potatoes or rice."
When enjoyment needs to be quick: a simple snack and a mature Trollinger.
Raffaella Usai"If you're passionate about your wine cellar, it's easy to have too many bottles in it. Without an inventory management system, you often lose track of things, as I do in my various residences. I recently discovered an ancient Trollinger. I thought: it's too thin for a sauce and too good to pour out. As a Swabian, I tasted it before I made my decision. And lo and behold, it was still perfectly drinkable. It showed matured notes, no fresh fruit, but subtle tomato tones, a little red pepper, slightly smoky, slim on the palate and the matured acidity came across well at the end. My dinner was clear: spaghetti bolognese. And I had the rest of the wine from the fridge in a large Burgundy goblet with a snack of bacon the next day. So it goes perfectly with pasta with tomato or meat sauce (spaghetti or pappardelle) or a simple snack."
Paula Bosch recommends the Muskat Ottonel 2018 from Hans Schwarz with Kaiserschmarrn.
Raffaella Usai"I discovered my great love of wine with wines like this. The Triebaumer family, whose wines are always in stock in my cellar, also played a big part in this. Whether they are ten, twenty or fifty years old, they are my great treasures - and always a safe bet. I recently loved the mature Muskat Ottonel from Hans Schwarz. And after only six years, this wine is still a youngster, with exotic notes of passion fruit, tropical fruit and spicy nutmeg. Its juicy, sweet honey notes with a floral, silky finish have the effect on me of a finely matured drink of the gods. It has shed its youthful peak as it matures. For me, it goes wonderfully with Kaiserschmarrn with apricot, mirabelle plum or apple compote."